From Friday to Sunday Mei shapes cardamom knot buns at the bench. The dough is a rich one with butter and milk, rolled out and spread with sugar and freshly ground green cardamom, then cut into strips and tied into knots of ninety grams each.
They go into the deck oven after the rye, at 09:30, when the heat has dropped a little. By eleven the street smells of them. They are €3.20 each, and on Saturdays they rarely last until the counter closes.